Of all the fusion cuisines, Nikkei (the combination of Japanese and Peruvian cooking) feels amongst the most geographically extreme. Texas is quite near Mexico and thus you get Tex-Mex. Yet Peru is a very long way away from Japan, and there is an awful lot of empty ocean between them. However, Japanese farmers made the trip to fulfil Peru’s need for workers in cotton and sugar plantations and, once there, began combining the techniques and dishes of Japanese cooking with the ingredients they found in their new home, bringing citrus and spice to the party. However unlikely its origins, thanks in the main to Nobu Matsuhisa (himself actually Japanese born and bred and not Nikkei) it’s become a style of cooking that can now be found in some of the best restaurants across the world.
Ayllu, fittingly, offers Nikkei cooking in the area that gave its name to the UK’s favourite Peruvian import. Hidden away beneath Smith’s on Paddington Basin. As you step down from the bustle of the canal side, the lights dim and you descend into something altogether more Lost in Translation. The room has rather opulent feel, dark green walls and leather banquettes providing an after dark atmosphere even as the sun blazes outside. It feels appropriate to start with a cocktail, in our case a Japanese spritz providing a much-needed thirst quencher in the heat. There is a guitarist to add a South American flavour to the atmosphere, although a close listen reveals the playlist to be a little more chart favourites than native Peruvian tunes.
Ayllu offers both a wide selection of Nikkei dishes – you can, of course, have black cod, and a range of sushi. You could simply go for the latter and would be very well fed. However, Ayllu places an emphasis on sharing, and its’ Machu Picchu Taste of Ayllu menu showcases the range of Ayllu’s menu with the intention it be enjoyed by the whole table.
It begins with a bit of theatre. Guacamole dip is made at the table, the avocado roughly chopped with watercress, onion and chilli, the last giving it a lovely bit of tang to complement the prawn crackers served in addition to corn tortillas. This came with the bluefin tuna roll, a generous number of pieces each topped with a slice of Jalapeno pepper and with a bright spicy mayo adding some bite to the clean taste of the tuna.
The Duo of Ceviche owed more to the Peruvian side of Nikkei, meaty chunks of sea bream with a sparingly used chilli allowing you to enjoy the freshness of the fish and a contrast in texture provided by a crunchy cancha, while the fried squid benefited from the zest of coriander and lime. The Japanese side was represented by the accompanying dish of beef tataki, appropriately rare and tasty meat cut through with a tart Ponzu salsa. This was followed by a shrimp popcorn. This might not immediately seem either Peruvian or Japanese, and doesn’t actually contain any popcorn, but the nuggets of shrimp were coated with yuzu for a citrus tang and given some warmth from a spicy mayo.
After some skewers of smoky, marinaded lamb came the final flourish, the Peruvian Steak BBQ. This just looked fantastic, slices of prime beef arranged around a perfect egg yolk. The meat was beautifully rare and infused with the taste of the tasted of the flames it had been cooked in. This came with a side of Yucas, a suitably decadent accompaniment proving that everything is enhanced with melted cheese, in this case a finely grated Manchego.
There was, somehow, still room for dessert. The chef’s choice for our visit was a thick slice of Macha Cheesecake, dense but the green tea of the Macha providing a clean and fresh palate cleanser.
The wine list is extensive and covers most price points, with a good selection by the glass. We enjoyed a juicy Nero d’Avola from Sicily, which went perfectly with the lamb and beef.
Ayllu pulls off the trick of looking upmarket and swanky while at the same time with a lack of formality that means it feels like a relaxed place to enjoy a meal and even just a drink. The food is very well cooked and always fabulously presented. Most importantly, at £59 per person for the full tasting menu, it is priced extremely keenly, meaning you can have all the trappings of a fine dining experience without the corresponding financial distress.
Ayllu, 25 Sheldon Square, London W2 6EY, www.ayllu.co.uk Tel: 020 8054 0385 Email: reservations@ayllu.co.uk
Instagram: @allyulondon
Open Monday to Sunday, 12:00 – 23:00 (opens at 11:00 on Saturdays)
Machu Picchu tasting menu £59pp
