Full and frank admission. I have always been a fan of hospitality when it’s the progeny of Piers Adam. His ventures have entertained a raft of London society (and I was on that raft), from the clubs Hanover Grand then SW1 in Victoria to the whole K- Bar Empire in West London. Then there was Kartouche the restaurant and bar, and more recently Mahiki Mayfair, the club that even crops up at events like Henley Regatta.
But since 2008 Adam’s focus has been on the meticulous restoration of the Craigellachie Hotel, Speyside. Employing the finest local materials and craftsmanship, he has revived a significant destination hotel, even distilling his own craft whisky. And Speyside is, after all, the Napa Valley of Whisky.
With abundant local supply of the finest lobster and Aberdeen Angus, their creation of ‘Spey Shack Lobster and Burger’ was an easy swing. Keen to bring the local fare to a broader audience, they have taken over a floor of the very wonderful 3 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden for an eight-week pop-up.
With their terrace literally in the Piazza, we were afforded a table just south of the buskers that perform infront of St. Paul’s Church, which on a sunny summer’s eve is just perfect.
The menu is suitably taught: the options are two lobster-based rolls, two burgers, two chips, a spoon of caviar should you wish, two cocktails and one pud.
We street-tested the cocktails, both served like slush-puppies – a whiskey sour and a frozen marguerita, and they were (aside from cranial freeze) great.
First came the Classic Lobster roll with slices of pickled cucumber and the ensemble is delicious. The fries (skinny like McDonalds) arrive with or without truffle, and for me I prefer to keep it simple.
The Lobster and crab roll with onion, while a quid more, just seemed neither one nor t’other, so the classic gets my vote.
Smashed burgers come with cheese or truffle. Served in a toasted brioche bun, they have that delicious lace skirt of Maillard-effect caramelization. A light spread of burger sauce and the excellent beef does all the hard work. And much as I like truffle, the cheeseburger triumphed.
For pud there’s Cranachan, which features raspberries and mascarpone cream with a kind of meringue wafer somewhere in the middle that was sweet, slightly chewy and well worth every calorie.
Spey Shack’s medium-term goal is to scale the offer but for now (short of a very long drive to Speyside) you’ll need to pop along to the pop-up.
Would I go back? I just did!
Spey Shack is at 3 Henrieta Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8PS – +44 7377 220955
Opening hours – Mon – Sat 8am – 11pm and Sun 8pm – 11pm
