Blimey. Where do we start? This art deco institution is full of the scorched projections of its past life. Built in 1923 by Sir Malcolm Campbell of world speed record fame, he used it as a location to sell premium cars. It then became an ambulance station, and in the 80’s and 90’s it housed a fashion market called ‘Garage’. During London Fashion Week, the likes of Alexander McQueen would use the vaulted first floor to present their latest collections to a room full of sullen-faced fashionistas.
In ‘97 Sir Terence would establish his legendary ‘Gastrodome’ and food emporium there, and in the early noughties there was ‘Shop at the Bluebird’ – a calmly curated space full of clothes, artifacts and furniture. And just outside the entrance sat a neon-green plastic sofa that I’d designed for Driade, which always made me smile.
During the 2000’s the cocktail bar became an essential watering hole for the fauna of West London, the young and beautiful who lived within a two-mile radius (plus those who came to watch, of course).
And all the while Conran’s restaurant was great, so I was keen to see what it has become under the stewardship of Evolv (formerly D&D). This is a structure imbued with happy building syndrome.
Just the bus journey from Sloane Square to Bluebird was a precious experience. Looking at the names of the shops, old and new, we arrived certain in the knowledge that, for now, Kings Road hasn’t yet become Swindon High Street (home to the generic and the ubiquitous).
Arriving at 6:30, there were only a couple of tables taken, but by 8:30 the place was heaving. Set in a cavernous industrial building with skylights, it has a view over Kings Road and an outdoor terrace for the summer months. The seating layout is very generous with tiers of banquets to accommodate different group sizes, and the lighting is soft and flattering.
A glass of English fizz by Louis Pommery was in order because Friday. Then to the cocktail list, beautifully presented concoctions based around tequila, mezcal and sparkling wine. My Hugo Spritz , thankfully not too sweet, was fab (elderflower is my spirit vegetable) as was my playmate’s Paloma, fresh, zingy and ‘mezcaly’.
I started with a Steak Tartare. Chopped quite chunky, served with three tiny egg yolks and sprig of dill, the Bloody Mary dressing works. And the side of bone marrow with a Jenga of toasted sourdough soldiers was a treat. Recommended!
My learned colleague opted for Dressed Crab. The white meat is so Lightly dressed it seems clean, matched with sweet pickled cucumber and apple. The dark meat presented as a parfait, with a very strong flavour. Soda bread with mayonnaise and a muslin-wrapped quarter lemon complete the dish.
On to the mains, I’m a big fan of anything ‘served three ways’ and Essex lamb was today’s victim. The star is a pair of lamb chops on a bed of samphire with seared cauliflower, which were sweet and delicious. Shoulder croquettes were a tad dry for me, the weakest link of the three being the miniature shepherd’s pie and juice.
Meanwhile, Brixham sea bream with pepper and aubergine purée arrived on a bed of a.ubergine puree and garden pesto. There was a lightly burnt note to the aubergine suggesting it had been flamed on a grill. Perfect. Sublime and only £32!
Our waiter proudly guided us to a bottle of Hahn from California. At 14.5%, this pinot noir was quite emphatic and I really enjoyed it.
For sides we ordered fries and grilled Hispi cabbage. I had visions of a bright green quarter that had been charred on the grill and served clean. What arrived was positivity dirty, slathered in sauce and garnishes. I’d have preferred something more innocent, while recognising their effort to deliver value.
Crème brûlée with Rhubarb sounded rather good. Sadly, it was rhubarb’s night off, strawberry stepping up to the plate, which lacked the acidity to balance the sweetness.
The Bluebird golden egg, sweet and acidic, its white chocolate shell melting as they pour the hot fruit sauce over it, looks like it might be a gimmick but is actually fantastic and a clear winner.
This whole evening was fabulous, with a palpable sense of celebration. A wonderful space, superb food and a room full of people having a great time. Credit to George, our waiter, who was spot on, this was an experience I very much look forward to repeating. Chapeau!
Bluebird Chelsea is at 350 King’s Road, SW3 5UU
Open from 9am – 11pm