The development at Battersea Power Station has transformed the south bank stretch of the Thames between Vauxhall and Battersea Park from a river of glass towers to give it a focus, even a point to its existence. Without the Power Station it was simply a narrow line of architecturally soulless homogenised investment towers. After years of dereliction the Power Station was given the second life it deserves with the massive regeneration not only of the original structure into a popular shopping mall but the construction of ‘starchitect’ designed apartment and office buildings. The whole place now acts like a magnet for people aided by a new Northern line tube station. If it was a pop song it’d be a hit.
Finding somewhere to eat at the Power Station is not a challenge as the complex is served by a busy food hall with a number of decent vendors (shout out to the always reliable Solis). On Level 2 a number of restaurants also sit including Le Bab. However if you want to escape the bustle of the mall then the selection of restaurants opposite the Power Station are the place to head, which brings us to TOZI which nestles in clear view on Electric Boulevard under the art’otel. With a sister restaurant in Victoria and a more distant cousin in Amsterdam each TOZI, while they all feature cicchetti, has a distinct character with their own menus. In Battersea it is the ‘TOZI Pizzeria & Cicchetti’ where we had dinner on the terrace enjoying the early evening warmth. The restaurant inhabits an handsome high ceilinged crescent shaped room with a long bar on one side. Tall glass windows to the front and the terrace.
So what was for dinner? Tozi Battersea specialises in three things, cocktails, cicchetti, and pizza, and does all three well. Cicchetti, Venetian snacks similar to tapas were first popularised by the late lamented Russell Norman and now pop up in many Italian restaurants around London, pizzas which are now so elevated in London that our expectations are equally high.
Amber nectar of the gods
On the evening of our visit we started with negronis which were well made, then onto the cicchetti, big fat grilled king prawns bathed in an ‘nduja butter, and a burrata with tomato pesto, olives, pine nuts, basil both of which were suited to the warm evening on the terrace. Next a pizza, which didn’t disappoint. This was ‘the Vegetarian’, made with good ingredients on a firm not overly ‘doughy’ crust. My dining companion chose pasta from the short but attractive list of pasta dishes, orecchiette with broad beans and asparagus – which was thoroughly enjoyed too.
Big fat ones
TOZI’s formula is quietly clever, it doesn’t try to overwhelm you with too many options, it is a good example of relaxed dining in restaurant that understands its location, the limitations of its kitchen and executes the basics well. Take the kids there for pizza at lunchtime or in the evening take yourself there for cocktails and Cicchetti you’ll enjoy it.
Let them eat pizza
The art’hotel has other places to eat and drink too, if you’re in the mood for something more sophisticated there’s JOIA, multi-Michelin starred chef Henrique Sa Pessoa’s modern Iberian restaurant and the Perola cocktail bar. As I haven’t had a chance to try either of these yet I’ll stick to ‘friends have told me’ that JOIA’s worth a visit and the hotel is a comfortable place to stay. There’s only one way to find out…
THE INFORMATION
TOZI Pizzeria & Cicchetti Bar, art’otel, Battersea Power Station 3A Electric Blvd, Nine Elms, London SW11 8BJ